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Another short stage as we close on Rome. We began our day a little later than normal, walking in the fresh air after yesterday’s heat-cleansing thunderstorm. A cool breeze suppressed the temperature, as we began our descent from the heights of Montefiascone.
We spent a significant portion of our morning on the smooth hard stone of the Via Cassia, an ancient Roman road that once linked Florence and Rome. Stones that were laid almost 2,000 years ago still form a walkway for pilgrims on the Via Romea. The Romans built their roads to last, and I was bemused to see streetlights lining one section of the Via Cassia as we skirted a town. Cars still drive on this road. It is incredible.
The Via Cassia
We spent nearly all of this stage on the Via Cassia or a gravel road through the countryside. After we climbed the only significant hill on today’s stage, we saw two women walking ahead of us. Fellow pellegrini, how unusual.
Our pace was much faster, and we soon overtook the women. They were two school teachers from Milan, Chiara and Chiara, who were doing a segment of the Via Francigena.
“After the school year has ended,” they explained, “we like to get out and walk, and talk about how to improve our teaching.”
They were amazed that we had come all the way from Brennero. “You look so fresh,” exclaimed Chiara.
I don’t know how we looked, but I took care to stay downwind of the pair, lest the stench of my backpack reveal how long we had been hiking under the Italian sun.
Mary, Chiara, and Chiara happily chatted as we walked. As we neared Viterbo, I watched military helicopters making training flights from an airbase outside the city.
As we neared Viterbo, we reached the Terme del Bagnaccio, a thermal bathing spot that dated back to the Etruscans.
“They say that they let pellegrinos bathe here for free,” said Chiara. She and the other Chiara intended to stop and soak themselves in heated water under the strengthening sun. I suppose this proves that, despite our time walking across the country, Mary and I are still not prepared to fully embrace the Italian ethos. I could think of nothing I would rather do less than soak my body in hot water. Cool water -- certainly. But I have been battling the heat for weeks. No thank you to the thermal baths.
We parted company with Chiara and Chiara, the second and third pilgrims we have met on this trip. We continued on into Viterbo alone.
What a busy little city! After months of silence and tranquility, the rush of traffic as we walked up the hill to the historic center was truly disconcerting. We had to watch our steps carefully, but ultimately we reached our destination for the evening.
Palace of the Popes, Viterbo
Today’s Distance: 18.5 KM
Total Distance: 1088.8
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