Day 18: Bassano del Grappa to Ospitale di Brenta

I must be getting my mojo back, my legs beneath me, or any other recuperative metaphor you might want to employ. This morning at 6:00, I went out for a stroll to take some photos of Bassano del Grappa. In past tours of Italy, I have always gone hunting pictures in the early morning light, but apart from our stay in Vicenza, I haven’t really made much of an effort in the morning.

The previous afternoon and evening, the streets of Bassano were swarming with tourists; this morning, the streets were empty. I spent a good hour walking through deserted streets, alleys, and piazze, alone except for pigeons and early morning garbage collectors. I did learn a few important things. For example, it is possible to buy toothpaste made with Grappa, for those who like to start the day with good dental hygiene and a grappa pick-me-up.

Ad for Grappa Toothpaste

I also learned that the Ponte Vecchio had been deliberately destroyed during World War II by Italy’s Alpini soldiers to hinder the Germans after they took control of this region after Italy’s surrender.

Plaque Commemorating the Destruction of the Bridge

After a light breakfast in our B&B, it was time to resume our walk. We headed out of the suburbs of Bassano, which eventually ceded to open countryside. We spent most of the day walking on paths beside the Brento river.

One thing I have noticed is that the official Via route prefers to vector us around towns using scenic hiking paths and other byways. One of the aspects I really enjoyed about the Camino Frances was that every four or five kilometers, you would stroll through a village. You might find an interesting church, take a break at a bar, or simply enjoy Spanish architecture. I don’t know if we are avoiding the towns in the Veneto because they aren’t worth seeing, or if the Via planners simply felt that it was better to stick to as many hiking paths as possible.

This odd tendency was evident today when we approached a town called Cartigliano. The Via left the Brenta path, and then ran along the edge of town through a sporting complex (were we really supposed to be walking here?) an industrial area, and then we reached an arrow that indicated a sharp right turn though the front gate of a rock quarry.

Does the Via Really Run Through Here?

We walked tremulously back through the yard, expecting a foreman to pop out of the building and shout at us for trespassing (and trespassing without hard hats and safety boots), but in fact, no one seemed to notice or care about us walking through the middle of the quarry. Eventually the trusty GPS led us through the rock piles and onto a path out of town.

Leaving the Quarry

My question: was there anything worth seeing in Cartigliano? It has such an evocative name and a very impressive campanile (that we could see from a distance). Was there a route that might have brought us through town?

With the sun intensifying (it would reach 88 F by the end of our hike), we continued to walk near the Brenta. The route took us through what appeared to be a gypsy encampment, and past a squalid lake (Lago di Camazzole).

We ended the day short of the full guidebook stage. We quit near Ospitale di Brenta, which will leave us with a fairly short stage tomorrow. Time to rest up and collect ourselves.

Today’s Distance: 23.9

Total Distance: 319.16