Day 43 - Chitignano to Subbiano

Today's stage began in Chitignano and ended in Subbiano. It was a relatively short stage, but it was designated a stage of medium difficulty by the guidebook, and this difficulty was enhanced by the heat and humidity of the day. Europe is in the middle of a heat wave, and there is no place for a Via hiker to hide from the extreme temperatures.

Pieve di Santi Vincenti e Petri, Chitignano

The day began well. We had a quick look at the Pieve di Santi Vincenti e Petri, a church in Chitignano, which, a plaque explains, was visited by Pope John Paul II. Next we climbed the hill to visit the Castello di Ubertino on the outskirts of town. The castle was all closed up: drawbridges tucked up tight, so we could not enter.

Castello di Ubertino

We continued on the main road to a gravel road, that quickly became a forest path. Ever since we left the flatlands of the south Veneto, I have noticed that the forest paths seem to have a problem with encroaching vegetation. Blackberry brambles, wild roses, and stinging nettles all collaborate to impede the Via walker. It might be very useful if, at the beginning of a pilgrimage, each walker was given a machete to help clear away some of the overgrowth we pass through. I must admit that I am beginning to cringe every time the guidebook mentions “a delightful trail through the forest.” I have learned that this phrase is a code for "a vigorous tussle with brambles."

As noted above, the stage is designated as one of medium difficulty. It works itself around the upper ridges of the Arno River valley. There are a number of ascents and descents, although nothing like the approach to La Verna. I think the guidebook is completely accurate in its evaluation: it is not an easy stage, especially on a hot day.

Castello di Valenzano

The trail led us by a second castle (the Castello di Valenzano), which was very spectacular. It sits perched high above the Arno valley, with a fabulous square tower and (what appeared from outside) to be wonderful grounds.

Castello di Valenzano

Near the tower I also saw a huge beetle, whose body was at least two inches long, and I would bet that its antennae were three inches long. Amazing.

Giant Beetle

Down the hill, up the hill, and soon we reached the Church of Santa Maria della Neve. We pulled off our sweaty backpacks and took a seat on some benches in the shade. There seemed to be some kind of day camp in operation and eight and ten years old boys raced wildly around the walls of the church.

After passing through Giuliano, we ran into more waymark trouble. The guidebook states that pellegrinos are to walk down the asphalt road until it makes a sharp right hand turn, and then turn off onto a dirt road. Well before we reached this turn, waymarks popped up indicating a left hand turn.

I consulted my GPS. It said continue on the main road to the turn. I consulted the guidebook. Same thing. Nevertheless, we decided to follow the arrows for a bit and have a look. After we had walked up the hill past a couple of houses, we saw more signs, but they seemed to be pointing toward agriturismos. Had someone put Via signs down on the main road to lure customers up to their businesses?

Frankly, after being led astray by waymarks a few times over the past week, I was inclined to endorse this theory. We decided that this time we were going to hold fast, and follow the guidebook and the GPS. We walked back down to the main road, continued to the curve, where we found the dirt road that departed. Unfortunately, there were no Via waymarks on this road, and fifty meters in was a sign that stated the road was private property.

My theory is that the owner of the road has closed it, and that an alternate route (the earlier one) has been selected to replace it. Nevertheless, you would not know that based on the guidebook, nor the trail changes listed on the website.

Lizard in Drainpipe

We had two options: backtrack in the near 100 degree heat and hope we found a way through, or adopt the bicycle route, and follow the main road down to the highway and hike into town. We chose the latter course. Soon we were strolling into the lovely town of Subbiano. The temperature when we arrived was 96.

Medieval Castle, Subbiano

After a rest, we ventured out into the hot afternoon. The guidebook only lists two attractions: the remains of a medieval castle, and the church, Santa Maria della Visitazione. The castle has been converted into apartments, and the church was locked up tight. Nevertheless, we did spend a few minutes looking out over the Arno River, as it ran cooly through a canyon that bisects the town.

Church of Santa Maria della Visitazione, Subbiano

Today’s Distance: 17.8 KM

Total Distance: 866.9 KM