Day 32 - Valli di Comacchio to Marina Romea

Our breakfast was served a little later than normal, which meant that we were unable to get the early start that we prefer. Today’s stage was to be longer than what was specified in the guidebook; we were going to continue past Casalborsetti, a beach resort town on the Adriatic Sea, to Marina Romea, another resort about 4.5 KM south. Mary had been unable to find accommodations in Casalborsetti, so we were forced to walk a little further.

Back up on the levee. This was our third day on this levee. I won’t be saddened to see the end of it. According to the guidebook, the first part of today’s stage consisted of 10.5 KM on the levee. Once again, we were back up in the harsh sun, no shade to be found, trudging east. An interesting difference was that the levee now separated the Reno River from a great salt marsh known as the Valli di Camacchio.  Centuries ago the land subsided, and the sea rushed in, forming a rich, biologically diverse land-locked swamp that is home to more than 300 species of birds. Even inexperienced bird watchers like us were able to pick out a few: thousands of Flamingos, ducks, herons, kingfishers, commorants, and the ubiquitous gulls.

Distant Flamingos

There are also many bugs. As we reached end of the levee, a nasty swarm of tiny white insects attacked me. There were thousands, if not a hundred thousand, raging all around me. The collective action of their wings made an shrill screech in my ears. Fortunately they weren’t biting or stinging, but they followed me for at least a half kilometer before they dispersed. Mary said that it looked like I was being followed by a dark cloud.

Most unpleasant.

The river turned south. People have built small elevated fishing cabins on pilings along the shoreline. Each of these cabins had a pole and pulley rig that supported a large fishing net. From the comfort of the balcony overlooking the water, the cabin’s owner could flip a switch, and an electric winch would lower the net into the water, until it rested on the bottom of the river. A few minutes later, reverse the switch, pull the net up by its four corners, and see if anything had wandered in at the right moment.

We met a group of men who were fishing in this manner, as well as having a barbecue and drinking beer. They were convinced that we were walking in the wrong direction. They did not relent until I pulled out the guidebook and showed them our course. One of them offered us each two large apricots, which, after our hours spent in the sun, were delicious.

Fish Party

“Ask them what they are fishing for,” said Mary.

I translated her question into italian. It turned out that the nets were designed to catch eel. “But we haven’t caught any today,” said one of the men. “These” -- and he indicated the eels on the barbecue -- “are from the grocery store.”

They must have some success with this type of fishing, or it would be unlikely that they would build so many fishing cabins. Maybe there is a time of year when the eels migrate up the rivers.

We continued on to Casalborsetti, walking in past grey blocks of ugly condominiums. These units were set more than a kilometer back from the water --- I can’t imagine wanting to own property in this town. We didn’t tarry long --- a cool drink in a bar, a quick trip to the bathroom, and then we were on our way again. Heading south, we passed an RV park that was stuffed with the mobile units. The Italians love the beach, and will suffer great indignity and discomfort to be near the water.

Beach RVs

The last part of our stage, the extension to Marina Romea, was shaded by lovely pine trees. We strolled along the asphalt bike path, which turned into the main street of the town. I thought this was an interesting town. It sits about 300 meters back from the beach in a dense pine forest. The hotels and shops that line the street were in the shade and much cooler than the region that was exposed to the sun.

We checked into our hotel, showered, and then it was time to take advantage of our complimentary beach passes. Another interesting aspect of Italian beaches is that many of them are privately owned. If you want to go to the beach, you need to rent a recliner and a sun parasol. Fortunately, a day’s rental was included in our hotel price. The hotel even had a “shuttle” to the beach (a golf cart), that we took advantage of.

The beach was incredible, not as the word is often used to describe something wonderful, but rather as something that filled one with disbelief. Thousands of beach umbrellas, in long orderly rows, were staked into the sand as far as the eye could see. People of all ages, sizes, and shapes roasted in the sun.

On the Beach

We roasted, about twelve rows back from the water for a couple of hours. Then, hot, tired, and ready for a change, we went back to our hotel, where they were running a Sunday special: free appertivi for hotel guests. Sweet. We had a lovely range of tiny dishes and free prosecco. You can’t kick about that.

Dinner at the earliest time possible (7:30) and then home to bed and to sleep.

Today’s Distance: 23.3 KM

Total Distance: 576.7 KM