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Thunderstorms did their work through the night, dropping intermittent deluges of water upon Santa Sofia. When we awoke, the air was cool (around 55 F) but humid (97%). Clouds still covered most of the sky, and wisps of vapor rose from the mountain slopes that encircled the town.
This and the next day have been in the back of our minds since the earliest stages of planning this trip. Between Santa Sofia and La Verna, we must climb 2,280 meters. This is more than a mile of elevation gain over a two day period. Every day these two stage, which the guidebook labels “difficult” had been growing closer. Now the hard physical test was at hand.
I loaded four bottles of water and two bottles of Gatorade (a total of 3 liters of liquid) into my backpack. I didn’t know if there would be opportunities to refill, and I didn’t want us to run out of water.
We began our climb on a road that led out of Santa Sofia. All went well until we reached a spot that our guidebook refers to as the “Localita Raggio.” Here a gravel road departed from the peaceful road we had been ascending. We followed the sign. The gravel road quickly ran out, and we found ourselves standing at the bottom of a farmer’s field. A distant sign guided us across the crops. We followed a faint trail across the field, but when we reached the top, the field ended and we entered an uncultivated wasteland, filled with tall grass and friable soil that collapsed underfoot.
Since the thunderstorms had soaked the area overnight, the grass (which rose over my waist) was soaked. My shorts and shoes quickly began to mop up all that excess liquid. The signs that had guided us to this point vanished, all the grassy indentations that might have been a trail had vanished, and we were simply out standing in an overgrown field.
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| On the Path Less Taken |
I brought out the GPS and was able to navigate a course up the untracked hills, following what the GPS thought was the trail. Eventually, after fighting through an increasing number of blackberry brambles and thorny wild roses, we came to a place beneath a small wooden structure. It had two Via arrows on it, pointing to the right. Beyond the structure was a two rut gravel road. The only problem is that a right turn did not seem correct. It led down the hill in the wrong direction. The right turn appeared to lead to a herd of brown cows that were watching us with supreme interest. A left turn (according to the GPS) would eventually bring us to a gravel road and might get us where we wanted to go.
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| The Waymark Led to Cows |
Stupidly, we followed the waymarks. We walked downhill and walked past the cows. The road ended. We decided to walk along the edge of the field paralleling the original course I had in my GPS. Our shoes, which were now encased in burrs, tangle weed, and grass seed, became even wetter (I wouldn’t have thought that was possible).
We ran out of farmer’s field, and found ourselves hedged in by a dense thicket of trees and blackberry brambles. My frustration was mounting. According to the GPS, the road we wanted was on the other side of the impenetrable thicket. We worked our way down the thicket until I finally found a narrow break between the trees. Hacking away at the brambles with our hiking poles, we cleared a path to the road.
Then the horse flies attacked.
Here’s a tip for those contemplating this walk: when you reach the Localita Raggio, stay on the main road! Both routes, the road and the bushwhacking fight through blackberry vines and unmarked trails reach the exact same place. If you opt for the wilderness experience, make certain you have a GPS, or abandon all hope, ye who enter these fields. The search parties will find you weeks later, wrapped in a cocoon of tangleweed and blackberry vines.
We managed to get back on course on the nice asphalt road (and whoever would have expected me to write those words). After a short respite we turned off onto a gravel road that began in a pleasant manner, but as we climbed, the gravel turned to dirt, and the dirt (remember the thunderstorms) turned to mud. Soon we were slipping and sliding, clawing for traction. We walked on what felt like platform shoes. At one point I had at least an inch of thick mud, straw, and tangleweed clinging to the soles of my shoes.
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| Slogging through the Mud |
On the positive side, my indignation was driving me up the hills.
We finally reached the main road (blessed asphalt) again. We found a small park near a closed restaurant and sat down for a few minutes to take stock of our situation. I changed my socks, and winced as the fresh pair began to soak up more water from my sopping shoes.
The road continued to climb. Ultimately, we topped out at 803 meters (according to the GPS). The views, looking up and down the valley were fantastic. Mary and I both agreed that even with the trail follies we had endured, it was still far better than the long, flat, straight days that still haunted our memories.
We began a small descent and then reached Gamberini, where there is a small bar favored by motorcyclists, bicyclists, and Via hikers. Mary had a bag of potato chips and I cooled my throat with a prosecco. I cannot recommend Gamberini enough. It comes at a perfect point in the stage.
Refreshed and revivified, we were ready for the second half of the stage. Once again the Via departed from the lovely asphalt road and set off through farmer’s fields and woodlands. Rather than driving right for the next town, San Piero in Bagno, the hiker route makes a long loop to the east of town. It follows some paths that were pleasant, and others that really need someone with a machete to trim back the blackberry vines and stinging nettles. Our lower legs were taking a thrashing. Mary claimed that it was penitential, like a flagellant. We will be well beaten by the time we reach La Verna.
The goal of this path was the Eremo di Corzano, an ancient hermitage on the top of a small mountain overlooking San Piero in Bagno. After a final climb, we reached the site, where we could see a couple of stone walls of the hermitage.
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| Eremo di Corzano |
Down the hill from the hermitage was a pretty little church, Il Santuario della Madonna di Corzano. According to the story, a local cult of Mary had sprung up here, and in 1835, when an earthquake struck nearby San Piero, the people pleaded for her intervention. The earthquake stopped, and the grateful people built a sanctuary at the top of the hill overlooking the city, where an old fort had been.
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| Madonna di Corzano |
We had a quick look into the church, but time was pressing. We made an agonizing walk down the old muleteer’s path, that connects the church to the city below. This is a steep path that is made of carefully laid stone and concrete. It is difficult to walk on and agonizing on overstressed feet. We gingerly descended to town.
Mary Descending the Mule Path
San Piero in Bagno looks very interesting. It was a pity that we did not have the time or energy for a look around. We shall put it on our list of future places to visit.
The last stage of the day was a hike along a busy road. We were on the bike path. We followed it into Bagno di Romagna. On first glance, this looks like a very touristy city. It is home to thermal hot springs and bath houses. I suspect many people come here for the waters, and when they aren’t soaking their cares away, they drift among the high end shops that crowd the main street. We didn’t linger, but found our hotel. After eight hours on the trail, one of our longest days yet, we were beat.
Tomorrow an even more arduous climb to La Verna.
Today's Distance: 27.4 KM
Total Distance: 711.9 KM
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